At CHP, the surf shop his father opened in Chiba nearly fifty years ago, Shingo Nakamura talks through a lineage most surfers only read about in old magazines. His father learned to shape under a protégé of Hobie Alter, and Greg Noll became close enough to fly in yearly and stay at the family home. Between stories of pre-internet swell checks and the shift from competitive shortboards to freesurf culture, he discusses a cancer diagnosis this past summer, the patience surfing taught him decades ago, and why the hardest part of recovery is watching the swell roll in from behind the counter. He still runs the shop today, part surf store, part living museum, out of the same stretch of coast where it all began.
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