Groms For Life By Jalian and Devon
This summer we had our usual month long stint in Indo, a place that always seems to call us back. The surf, the food, the people, and on this particular trip we enjoyed the the energy of the groms at the little village break of Hu'u Sumbawa. We pulled up to this perfect little wave to see at least 30 or so frothing grommets riding every piece of dribble with such stoke. I decided to take my twinny and GoPro out to surf and capture these frothers. As soon as the kids saw me walking down the beach, they all started charging me in a swarm. My Bahasa (Indonesian dialect) is pretty slim but i didn't need to understand words as we were operating on pure vibes. I've been a lot of places around the world but something about these kids and their stoke was a great refresher course on how to be. They were so vocal, cheering each other on and just having the time of their lives, by sharing a few waves together. They all rode the same waves and seemed to have no concept of "my wave". I paddeled out with them and they were swarming heavily as they saw I had a camera, and they all wanted their shot. When a set came in, everyone screamed go, and I tried to ride behind them to film a couple of their waves...
It was so fun and their energy got me fired up. I was able to get their photos to a local elder on a usb, to hook them up for reminding me what fun in the water is supposed to be all about....
#VastLife